How To Build A Dog Kennel Side Table
Edward R. Forte
November 24, 2021
Crates & Kennels
In this post, I’m sharing how to build a DIY dog crate end table!If you remember back this summer, I built my sister a console with all the bells and whistles for them to use as both a dresser and a dog crate.What’s cool about this set is that you can use it as nightstands and a dresser in the bedroom, but it also works great as a TV console and end tables for the living room, too!This end table/nightstand design obviously works fine as a dog crate, but if you don’t need the crate function, it works fine as a storage cabinet, too.If you aren’t using this as a dog crate or don’t need the extra height, you can install this panel 3 ½″ up from the bottom so that it’ll be flush across the bottom once the face frame is attached.Step 3: Add Face Frame and Support Pieces.The face frames on these nightstands were made using 1x3s for the sides and a 1×4 at the bottom.That meant the top piece of the “face frame” had to be installed behind the sides.If you don’t have the patience for cutting crown molding like this (it is a little tedious), feel free to attach a top to the face frame so that it’s flush instead of doing it this way.But, I used pocket holes and screws to attach a 1×3 on the inside of the face frame like shown.Then, I added two scrap plywood supports (or you can also use 1x3s) on the top here to give me somewhere to attach the top and the back panel later.Step 4: Add Trim and Molding to Dog Crate End Table.Now, it would make sense to attach the top before I did this, BUT I wanted to cut the top to fit perfectly over the molding, so I installed the molding first.But this time, since this piece was much smaller, adding that detail would have made the door too small for Wally (my sister’s dog) to fit into, so we opted to skip that part to allow for a larger door.I built the doors similar to the console with 1x3s on the sides and bottom and a 1×6 at the top.I used a round object and then kind of freehanded the rest of the curve on the top and cut it out with a jig saw.However, when I installed this into my cabinet using butt hinges, it was too wide to close and I had to trim a little off the side.You could use pocket holes here if you wanted, but I didn’t want to deal with plugging the holes, so that’s why I used dowels.Step 6: Build and Install Drawer.I installed 19 ¾″ up from the bottom panel and made sure that the stretchers were installed flush to the inside of the face frame.Now, I could mount the slides onto these stretchers and start building the drawer.These drawer fronts will have a decorative edge that will make the overall thickness of the drawer front 1”, so I mounted these slides so that they were 1” in from the front of the face frame.Just like with the console, I made these drawer fronts so that they had a 1” wide trim piece glued and nailed around the edges of a ¾″ plywood center panel.I had to cut these trim pieces on the table saw.If you weren’t wanting to use these as a dog crate, you could leave this large cabinet underneath for storing large items, OR, use a shelf pin jig and drill holes to add pins for adjustable shelves to make the most of your storage space.I hope you’ve enjoyed this project and be sure to head over and watch the video tutorial to see the build in action. .
The Best Dog Crate End Tables for 2020
With so many options available, choosing the right crate for your dog can be tough.Unlike other materials commonly used in dog crates, such as metal or plastic, dog crate end tables are generally crafted from wood, which blends nicely with the other furniture in your home.Let’s face it: making a plastic or metal crate look good is nearly impossible.Likewise, note the crate’s weight capacity and be sure it corresponds to your dog.This crate saves space by fitting into the corner areas of your home.Made for medium-sized dogs from hardwood birch with steel rods, this item comes in three top finishes and 22 different base colors.This chic statement piece sports a barn door style entrance with secure latch for crating.Made from solid ash wood (no particle board here) with a removable top that’s strong enough for lamps, objects, and other decor.This piece is perfect as an end or console table while also housing your small furry friend.With an attached top, this enclosed crate is great for pups who prefer their privacy.This chic wood-style crate comes in white or espresso, depending on your decor needs.Made from sturdy medium-density fiberboard and wire, this crate is best for dogs on the smaller side. .
16 Free DIY Dog House Plans Anyone Can Build
These free DIY dog house plans will make sure that your dog has a safe haven from the weather and you can take pride that you built it just for them. .
Build a Dog Kennel Side Table
However, he still has his kennel because he loves to nap in the little alcove where I have placed it.So he is hefty but short, so I got him a 36” kennel.The exact measurements I use are for a 36” but can be adapted for larger or smaller kennels.For the lid I used melamine so it would have a smooth surface.Then I primed and painted these corner posts so I could get an even coat on them before attaching the other pieces to them.This can be changed for your preference, but I really wanted that clean, smooth look.Once I had attached all four pieces to the corner posts, I primed and painted these pieces.I simply used an iron-on melamine tape to trim out the edge of the table top to give it a more finished look. .
Dog Kennel End Table : 13 Steps (with Pictures)
I had decided to use the 1x4s on an angle like this for a few reasons.Luckily, I have a handy wife with an extra set of hands (for some reason I only have 2) and we were able to hold them in place while nailing them into the base and each other.There were some small gaps, but I will get to how that was fixed later. .
How to build a dog kennel end table
Now what’s great with this DIY furniture item is that you can also use it as a temporary crate if your dog gets aggressive when you have guests at home.This proved to be very helpful in making sure the look of the thing wasn’t altered too much by the practical dimensions we needed for the space and the dog.I found we needed to take down some of the thickness to give the dog more space to look out of the kennel and to not have the whole thing become a big box with some occasional holes.Because I drew this up more on the fly and only did a rough blueprint, I don’t have most of the design drawn on paper.Cut lumber: I started with the base and the posts of the kennel as that would provide the overall framework to build everything else on.I ran this through with the saw and then saved the scrap to be used as trim of the table top later on.Next, I used my chop saw to cut 45’s on the 2×4’s again to make more of the frame (more appealing and professional looking).Once I had the base all solidly together (and let the glue dry a bit), I got out the trusty sander and got it to a nice smooth finish while it would be easier to access all the parts (a helpful wife idea).3) I don’t really like the look of overlapping wood and I wanted a cleaner look overall.Luckily, I saved some of the scraps from the 1×4 cuts and this worked perfectly.I drew a level line around the entire inside of the base and then just nailed the support in place.Build walls and add caging: Next, I needed to put each of the walls together before putting them in place.Using the 1×12 for the bottom part of the wall and the 1×4 for the top, I determined how big of a window there would need to be.Then, with that measurement, I cut out the size of caging from the horse fencing.(I used my angle grinder with a cutting disc for this, though bolt cutters would work just as easily for this.).Then, I laid the caging on the wood and drew marks for where I would need to carve out to have the cage rest inside the wood.Using my dremel tool I carved out the wood so the cage would rest just under the surface of the wood. .